Because it’s easy. You don’t have to think for yourself if you let someone else do it.

Gulity

Seems like an odd take to me. The drivers are the ones colouring outside the lines. Why should the track change?

Make the off track penalty harsher. At some point (10, 20, 30seconds?) whatever gain a driver may get from going off will be completely cancelled.

Could also remotely cap the power to the car by 20% for a lap.

I had a men’s hoodie from Bench that had those thumb holes. Loved it.

They’re out there.

A patchwork of things has helped me acquire and maintain a more balanced life. I’d say the largest contributor was adopting ‘radical acceptance’ as a way of life. Basically, I’m constantly, consciously accepting whatever is happening to me. It doesn’t mean I don’t try to change things but it means that I’m not always resisting everything.

Walking hands?! 😂

🤤

Recreating that scene from Casino Royale?

Good call on a deep clean. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. I think it’s a lot of trial and error for most people at the beginning.

That piece on the FEP sheet is where it let go from the supports when the build plate lifted. More support will probably fix that.

I always think about what’s happening when I’m doing supports. The resin gets cured on the FEP then the build plate moves up and pulls that layer off the FEP. The part is being pulled by forces in opposite directions so we need to make sure that the part hanging on to the build plate is sufficiently anchored so it’ll pop off the FEP and not off the build plate.

Any time!

If it didn’t print at all I’d be looking at that USB right away. I had many half printed things and corrupted files before I clued in.

I started resin printing a couple months ago. I had some of those layer problems too. I found that I need way more supports than I thought I needed at the beginning. This is a pretty good guide on supoorts. Alternately Ive been using lychee slicer’s auto supports. They seem to work well for the most part.

I also just recently did some exposure tests. It takes a while because each test is about 20 minutes but it turns out I was under exposing my prints so things are better now.

Lastly I replaced the usb stick the printer came with. I highly recommend doing this right away, a bad stick can do weird things. I got two 64gb Kingston data travellers for $10 Canadian. It’s well worth it.

Haven’t had the layer issues since I did these things and, fingers crossed, I haven’t had a failed print since either.

Lucky for me I can’t afford a new car anyway. I’ll just keep driving my unconnected car.

Isn’t apple shifting to production in Inda?

How do you go about getting an invite to one of these holy grails?

Reducing the time won’t help with adhesion to the build plate but an overexposed layer might make the following layer less likely to adhere correctly. I always do 25sec on my bottom layers and never have adhesion problems so I figured it could work for you too.

I’m not 100% sure because I’m fairly new as well but I’d try going with 25 seconds for the bottom layers and adding a bit of wait time before lifting.

It looks like your bottom layers did fine but maybe the normal layers didn’t adhere properly to the bottom layers. That could explain why you had some sticking to the FEP.

I’d also make sure the FEP sheet is is good shape. No big scratches or dents.

Did the print complete but not turn out or did the printer stop early with an error?

Check out Formlabs resin printers. They have special resins that may do what you need. They also have sales people on staff to walk you through everything.

They’re pretty pricey for a hobbyist (at least for this hobbyist) but a business may be ok with it.

10-4. I hear you.

For labs sells a biocompatible resin for medical use. I’ll probably end up switching to that.

I just looked in to a vibratory tumbler, they aren’t cheap!